We started the day with a tour of the city on one of the hop-on, hop-off, open-top buses. We wanted to see if there was anything further afield worth a return visit. We made a mental note of several places, including Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum.

We then wandered by St Joseph’s cathedral (surrounded by many interesting looking cafes), along by Hoan Kiem Lake and then hit upon the old post office.

A ‘quick’ look in the post office, quite unexpectedly, became a long one. Inside was a totally fascinating stamp exhibition.

Philatelist or not, the whole arrangement offers visitors something of a cultural history lesson.

Each card features an event or moment that has been commemorated by the issuance of a stamp. A short explanation, along with marginalia, offering further points of interest.

So, as an example, take the relentless bombing of Hanoi and northern Vietnam by the American B52 bombers in the ‘Vietnam War’.

This particular stamp features captured American pilot W. A. Robinson, escorted by Viet Cong guerilla Ms. Nguyen Thi Kim Lai. Marginalia notes the height differential between the two; 1.4m:2.2m.

The card also features an example of a piece of personal post that was sent bearing such a stamp. In this case, a variation on the stamp described above.

The downing of American bomber planes that carried out ‘carpet bombing’ raids was, quite understandably if you were on the receiving end, something to be celebrated.

Another exhibit exemplified Indo-China’s solidarity with the cause of anti-racism around the world, by celebrating the achievements of Nelson Mandela.

Another simply warned against driving under the influence of alcohol.

After leaving the post office we headed for the Old Quarter, needing a coffee, and to look for somewhere to eat that evening.

On our way, we came across what appeared to be a gathering point for groups of finely dressed ladies who had caught our attention throughout the day.

On enquiry, we discovered that we have landed in Hanoi just in time for the 70th anniversary of Liberation of Hanoi Day. That would explain the adornment of most buildings in flags and bunting of various sorts. Also, the amount of placards celebrating key points in Hanoi’s rich – at times, troubled – history.

And on into the Old Quarter… a mass of busy streets with sights and stop-offs that would keep anyone occupied for far longer than we are here for.

This evening we headed back into the Old Quarter for food. I did say, above, that there are many nooks and crannies you can disappear into. This place was a great find.

Within this courtyard we found what appeared to be a bonsai tree exhibition, maybe competition. I have always quite liked bonsai trees but these were something quite different. The images do not offer a sense of scale; some of them were quite magnificent in shape and size.

The setting itself was suitably atmospheric and arranged in a grid of inner courtyards.

One courtyard housed a mask display.

As we headed back we hit upon Hanoi’s version of Siem Reap’s pub street. Truth be told, it was manic and very definitely a young persons’ game. Early start for us tomorrow, and Ha Long Bay, so we scuttled on through.

Finally, I was quite struck by this, today, the Martyr’s Monument. It depicts one woman with a sword, one man holding a rifle and another a torch. The lettering on the base reads (in Vietnamese)

‘Determined to die for the birth of the nation.’

It was erected as a memorial to those who died fighting for Vietnam’s independence.

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